How Ancient Polynesians Conquered the Pacific on Their Surfboards

BY: VIKRAM ZUTSHI © Frank Davey / commons.wikimedia.org

Exhausted yet exhilarated, surfing in Puerto Escondido evokes indescribable sensations akin to a euphoric high.

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Tube riding in surfing provides a profound existential experience, connecting with the universe while surrounded by silence and water.

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Surfing's ancient origins as a sacred act contrast with its modern glamorized image and commercial associations.

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Polynesia, birthplace of surfing, where the ocean held spiritual significance and surfing was a divine connection.

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Polynesians revered the ocean, finding spiritual connection through surfing, tapping into its energy and power.

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Heʻe Nalu, the art of wave riding, was celebrated during the Makahiki season, fostering social connections and joyful play.

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Hawaiian royalty claimed exclusive access to renowned surf spots, merging tales of gods and goddesses with their surfing experiences.

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Kahuna guided surfers in sacred board selection and construction, with skilled craftsmen carving wooden surfboards.

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